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Bolt Cutter
Compound Action Hinge: Designed with a dual-pivot system that multiplies the force applied to the handles, allowing the user to cut through thick metal with significantly less effort.
Cr-Mo (Chrome Molybdenum) Jaws: The cutting heads are forged from premium Chrome Molybdenum steel, known for its superior toughness and resistance to chipping compared to standard carbon steel.
$20.59
Quick Answer: The Bolt Cutter is a long-handled cutting tool with short, hardened jaws driven through compound levers, used to cut bolts, threaded rod, wire, mesh and chain. A bolt cutter multiplies hand force many times so that thick steel can be cut without power tools.
Leverage in Two Stages
The tool uses two lever stages. The long handles push on a short linkage, and that linkage closes the jaws near their pivot, so a steady squeeze on the handles becomes a very large force where the blades meet. Longer handles give more leverage, which is why these cutters are sized by overall length; the length and maximum cutting capacity of this model are not in its title and should be confirmed.
Jaw shape decides the job. Centre-cut jaws meet in the middle of their depth and suit rods, bolts and chain, while flush-cut or angled jaws are made for cutting close to a surface or reaching awkward positions. Check which jaw pattern this model has if flush cutting is needed.
The jaws are hardened, but only to a level suited to soft and medium steels. Cutting hardened items such as high-tensile bolts, spring steel or some chains beyond the tool’s rating chips or dents the edges. Jaws usually have an adjustment screw to keep the blades meeting evenly as they wear. After cutting, rough rod ends are dressed with files while the rod is gripped in a bench vice.
Specifications
| Type | Hand cutter with compound lever action |
| Cuts | Bolts, rods, wire, mesh and chain within its rating |
| Jaws | Hardened cutting jaws, usually with an alignment adjustment |
| Operation | Two-handed squeeze on long handles |
| Length, jaw pattern and cutting capacity | Confirm at enquiry |
Applications
- Cutting threaded rod and bolts to length in fabrication and maintenance workshops
- Trimming reinforcement bar and mesh in construction trade training
- Cutting fencing wire and mesh for garden, farm and field-station projects
- Removing seized bolts and fixings during dismantling exercises
Care & Handling
- Wear safety glasses, since cut pieces can fly off sharply, and point the short end away from people.
- Keep the material at right angles to the jaws and do not twist the cutter while cutting.
- Never extend the handles with pipes or stand on them; overloading chips the jaws.
- Oil the pivots occasionally and check jaw alignment with the adjustment screws.
Why Choose LabEquip
Construction, fabrication and maintenance training workshops, and institutions that look after fences and grounds, buy bolt cutters for jobs that snips cannot manage. LabEquip lists this tool in the General Lab Products range; tell us the thickest material you need to cut through the contact page.
Frequently Asked Questions
What can a bolt cutter cut?
Mild steel bolts, rods, wire, mesh and chain within its rated capacity. The thicker and harder the material, the longer the cutter needed. Hardened items beyond the rating can damage the jaws.
What do centre-cut and flush-cut jaws mean?
Centre-cut jaws meet in the middle of the jaw depth and suit rods and chain. Flush-cut jaws meet at one face, so they can cut close against a surface. Angled jaws help reach awkward positions.
Why are the jaws adjustable?
As the edges wear, or after a heavy cut, the two blades may stop meeting squarely. Small adjustment screws near the pivot let the user bring the edges back together so they cut cleanly without leaving a tail.
Can it cut hardened steel?
Only if it is specifically rated for it. Standard jaws are hardened for soft and medium steel, and hardened chain, spring steel or high-tensile bolts can chip or dent them.
How do I cut safely?
Wear eye protection, hold the cutter with both hands, keep fingers clear of the jaws and handles as they close, and support the offcut or point it at the floor so it cannot fly towards anyone.
Why is my cutter getting harder to close?
The pivots may be dry or dirty, or the jaws may be blunt or out of alignment. Clean and oil the pivots, check the adjustment, and have damaged jaws reground or replaced.
Last Updated: September 2026
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